"How would you like to stand like a God before the crest of a monster billow, always rushing to the bottom of a hill and never reaching its base, and to come rushing in for a half mile at express speed, in graceful attitude, until you reach the beach and step easily from the wave?"
Many of those who live among us feel they must surf to live. Santa Barbara has a passionate surf culture, whose disciples reverence the tides and the seasons - the hours of their days cycle around the sweet and salt of the ocean.
They are zealots whose blood and dreams ebb and flow with the waves. Once initiated, they cannot divest themselves from the transcendence and beauty of the ocean; their fidelity to it is complete.
They aver their devotion - the whole of their lives is filtered through the blue-green lens of the sea.
To help prepare you for your surf day, here's a link to Surfline , a site that will give you current local surf and weather conditions, surf news, videos, and interviews. Currently, they feature an interview with world-famous surf legend, Bobby Martinez, a Santa Barbara local.....
AND - check out this very cool site, SB Surf Girls - by, for, and about - Girls Who Surf! This site features a video interview with Kathy Kohner Zuckerman, whose father wrote the original story, Gidget. She was the real Gidget, a young woman who lived and surfed in Malibu in the 1950s. During her interview, she congratulates women who surf, and encourages them to "keep your stoke".